Gluing, Sealing, and Painting

What techniques and products can be used to achieve a perfect result in model making? We at ScaleMonkey are constantly finding that more and more questions are arising here. The global market and new media such as social networks, forums, and model building events bring new and even better products every day.
In the best case, articles are promoted that are optimal for their intended use, but not for everything. Here, it should be carefully considered whether you really need this. Unfortunately, there are also dubious characters and a lot of charlatans who re-label inferior products and circulate them as the high end. Most of the time, you later doubt your own abilities because you supposedly used a “super” product.

We would like to emphasize in advance that our recommendation focuses on building models in the wooden construction style, i.e., true model building.

Gluing and Bonding

Especially regarding the gluing or bonding of wooden parts in ships or aircraft, one often hears incredible stories, yet there is only one correct answer: wood glue (white glue). Anything else is merely a waste of money and has no place in proper models.
Here, one should trust leading manufacturers and preferably use a waterproof white glue, such as Bindan D3 Propellerleim or Ponal Express.

Small tip: Stock up on your glue supply before winter. Delivery of these glues is no longer possible at temperatures below 0° Celsius, as they could otherwise be damaged.

These glues have the advantage that they can be easily diluted with water for certain applications, allowing for better dosage. Excess glue can be easily removed with water, as long as it has not dried.
Unfortunately, white glue requires about 12 hours to cure, and sometimes there are tricky areas to bond that cannot be permanently held or fixed. In such cases, we use superglue to temporarily fix the parts with small dots, and then fill the bonding surfaces with diluted white glue.
Syringes from the medical field with 1.2 mm cannulas are excellently suited for this.

For hulls, especially in ship model building, constructed with frame-and-stringer methods, high stability is desired. Often, due to the many curved surfaces, the bonding areas are not optimal. It is therefore advisable to coat the entire hull afterwards with a thick resin. This fills any voids and thus bonds the entire hull into a single unit.
For this, we use a 40-minute resin, which can be thickened with thixotropic agent as needed.
If additional stability is required in certain areas, it is possible to pre-fill these with resin thickened with cotton flock. This is particularly helpful in the bow area or for engine mounts.

Sealing and Priming

Your opinion countsRatings & Feedback

There are no reviews yet. Be the first one to write one.

InsightScaleDiscover more now

T-Bucket

Fort T23 Hod Rod im M 1:8

V-Twin Motorcycle

Shovelhead Chopper M 1:6