{"id":44926,"date":"2023-06-24T15:00:25","date_gmt":"2023-06-24T13:00:25","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.scalemonkey.com\/aero-naut-comtesse-vaar-byggereportasje\/"},"modified":"2026-07-16T11:54:41","modified_gmt":"2026-07-16T09:54:41","slug":"aero-naut-comtesse-our-construction-report","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.scalemonkey.com\/no\/aero-naut-comtesse-our-construction-report\/","title":{"rendered":"Aero-Naut \u00abComtesse\u00bb \u2013 v\u00e5r byggereportasje"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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I lang tid har vi g\u00e5tt med ideen om \u00e5 bygge en edeltreb\u00e5t. N\u00e5 ble min kone begeistret for en italiensk sportsb\u00e5t i ferien. Siden Pedrazzini Vivale Veloce<\/a><\/span> i originalversjon sprenger budsjettet v\u00e5rt litt, bestemte vi oss for \u00e5 bygge Comtesse<\/a><\/span> fra aero-naut<\/a><\/span> sammen.Som et av f\u00e5 firmaer driver aero-naut<\/a><\/span> fortsatt med \u00abekte\u00bb modellbygging. Til tross for \u00f8kende ettersp\u00f8rsel etter ferdigmodeller til lave priser, holder familiebedriften \u2013 n\u00e5 i 4. generasjon \u2013 fast ved grunnleggerens motto: MODELLBYGGING skrives med store bokstaver. Tradisjonsbedriften kunne i 2022 se tilbake p\u00e5 100 vellykkede \u00e5r.
ScaleMonkey<\/span> kan dessverre ikke vise til en like lang suksesshistorie enn\u00e5, men vi jobber med saken. S\u00e5 la oss begynne med modellbyggingen. Byggesettet til Comtesse ble raskt bestilt og ogs\u00e5 levert veldig raskt.Jeg liker ikke brennmerkene p\u00e5 lasersk\u00e5rne byggesett, s\u00e5 f\u00f8rst gikk vi i gang med \u00e5 pusse alle spant, stringere og dekkanlegg. I tillegg avgradet vi alle innvendige kanter, siden det er lettest \u00e5 gj\u00f8re n\u00e5. <\/p>

S\u00e5 var det tid for montering. Delene passer utmerket sammen. En liten un\u00f8yaktighet var det ved spant 13 mot dekkanlegg 17. Dette fikset vi med et lite stykke kryssfiner som vi satte inn som en kloss, og deretter limte vi alt skikkelig med hvitt trelim. <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\tde pussede spantene p\u00e5 byggebenken<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"\"\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\tdekkanlegg (del 17) ferdig montert<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\ther ble glideflaten limt<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"\"\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\tmontering av servoplate i hekken<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tF\u00f8r servoplaten monteres i hekken, er det viktig \u00e5 tilpasse servoen i den tiltenkte utsparingen. Dette er senere sv\u00e6rt vanskelig \u00e5 f\u00e5 til. Etter at det hvite trelimet hadde t\u00f8rket godt, pusset vi hele spantkonstruksjonen til og tilpasset ogs\u00e5 kj\u00f8len og baugomr\u00e5det til b\u00e5tens linjef\u00f8ring. \n\nN\u00e5 er det tid for bordkledningen. De sm\u00e5 holdeflikene p\u00e5 spantene er riktignok helt ok, men vi filte dem litt mer ned for ikke \u00e5 skade den sv\u00e6rt tynne mahognien. Deretter la vi inn borddelene, justerte dem n\u00f8yaktig i baugen, og s\u00e5 var det i gang med sm\u00e5 punkter av lynlim. Dette arbeidet er virkelig fint \u00e5 gj\u00f8re to sammen \u2013 man skulle ikke tro hvor lange sekunder kan bli n\u00e5r man m\u00e5 presse p\u00e5 et sted. Slik fortsatte vi dette trinnet bit for bit langs glideflaten helt til hekken. Deretter samme fremgangsm\u00e5te med del 17.1, og til slutt \u2013 slik det st\u00e5r i beskrivelsen \u2013 lime del 16, 17 og 17,1 skikkelig med lett fortynnet hvitt trelim.\nIkke la dere forvirre av de store skrutvingene; de er ikke strammet til. De fungerer egentlig bare som en 5., 6. eller 7. h\u00e5nd og presser kun med egenvekten mot bordkledningen. \t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\tkj\u00f8l og baugomr\u00e5de tilpasses linjef\u00f8ringen<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\tsideplankene justert n\u00f8yaktig i baugen<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"\"\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\tsideplankene festes f\u00f8rst med lynlim<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\tdisse skrutvingene fungerer bare som en 3.\u20134. h\u00e5nd<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"\"\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t... ser allerede ut som en b\u00e5t<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\tden andre sidekledningen er montert<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Limingen av bordveggene har herdet, og vi er sv\u00e6rt forn\u00f8yde med resultatet. N\u00e5 g\u00e5r vi videre til undervannsskroget. Delene passer formmessig veldig godt p\u00e5 spantkonstruksjonen. For \u00e5 f\u00e5 en pen glideflate og en skarp avslutningskant mot vannet til slutt, pusset jeg kryssfinerbunnen n\u00f8yaktig til glideflaten (del 16).Deretter p\u00e5f\u00f8rte vi ufortynnet hvitt trelim p\u00e5 spantkonstruksjonen og, som i beskrivelsen, justerte og festet delene fra baugen og langs kj\u00f8len. P\u00e5 v\u00e5r b\u00e5t ligger delene optimalt p\u00e5 konstruksjonen; kun ved spant 9, 10 og 11 er det en liten glippe. Den presset vi ikke sammen, men fyller den med fortykket epoksy. <\/p>

Til slike arbeider bruker vi alltid epoksyharpiks L og herder L fra R&G, samt bomullsflokk eller tiksotropimiddel etter behov. Det er riktignok ikke den raskeste harpiksen, men den trenger dypt inn i treverket, har utmerket styrke, men ogs\u00e5 elastisitet. <\/p>

Men la oss se det slik \u2026 I modellbygging handler det IKKE om hastighet (selvsagt under byggingen), det er en hobby, og resultatet teller.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\tbunnen pusses n\u00f8yaktig til glideflaten<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\tf\u00f8rste bunnkledning er fiksert med vekter<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\tovergangen ser bra ut<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t... samme fremgangsm\u00e5te p\u00e5 side to<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Ja, som kort nevnt i forrige innlegg, er harpikssystemet vi foretrekker ikke akkurat det raskeste. Dermed er limingen av de enkelte spantene og innsiden av skroget med tyktflytende harpiks litt tidkrevende. Men det har ogs\u00e5 sin fordel: man oppdager en del som ikke er l\u00f8st helt optimalt. Mer om det senere \u2026 <\/p>\n

F\u00f8r vi satte b\u00e5ten i de mest umulige posisjoner for \u00e5 herde den innvendig, ble det selvf\u00f8lgelig alltid gjort sm\u00e5ting for \u00e5 f\u00e5 byggingen litt videre. Slik ble rammen til dekksoppbygget til, og den bakre trappeoppgangen ble limt inn. I l\u00f8pet av de neste dagene formet vi den til \u2013 \u00abfor et pussearbeid\u00bb. Men forel\u00f8pig er vi veldig forn\u00f8yde med resultatet. <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\tliming med fortykket harpiks<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"\"\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\tforsterkning av hekken med 3 mm kryssfiner<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Etter at vi n\u00e5 har brukt dager p\u00e5 \u00e5 stryke b\u00e5ten innvendig med tykk harpiks, blir det ogs\u00e5 mye tid til mindre arbeider ved siden av. Slik har vi allerede forsterket akterspeilet og frest ut en del n\u00f8dvendige utsparinger. <\/p>

S\u00e5, n\u00e5 til drivverket. Originalen fra aero-naut \u2013 \u00abtja\u00bb \u2013 kan kanskje fungere, men det er ikke helt det vi ser for oss til b\u00e5ten v\u00e5r. Vi hadde ikke v\u00e6rt ScaleMonkey om vi ikke tok et steg opp teknisk, og nettopp derfor valgte vi Gundert stive akselanlegg. Disse er stivt koblet til motorene, noe som garanterer perfekt rundgang og dermed vibrasjonsfattig rotasjon av akslene. Til drivverkene laget jeg en motorholder<\/a> i karbon med spesielle fester, slik at de senere enkelt kan tas inn og ut. Det var en skikkelig n\u00f8tte \u00e5 f\u00e5 alle vinklene til \u00e5 stemme, men det passer. <\/p>

Akslene i anlegget v\u00e5rt er 5 mm tykke og lagret med glide- og kulelager. Til propellfestet bruker vi en 3\/16 DogDrive. <\/p>

Lignende endringer gj\u00f8res ogs\u00e5 p\u00e5 roranlegget, for en 3 mm messingaksel \u2026 det kan ikke fungere skikkelig. Her bruker jeg en 5 mm aksel med et blad i rustfritt st\u00e5l. Denne kombinasjonen b\u00f8r ogs\u00e5 t\u00e5le mer aggressiv svingkj\u00f8ring godt. <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\tGundert stive akselanlegg spesielt for Comtesse<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t48,2 x 1,9 propell i aluminium med Dog-Drive<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\tmotorflens for aero-naut actro-n 50-2-760-motorer<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\takselanlegg montert p\u00e5 v\u00e5r motorholder<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Roranlegget v\u00e5rt er beregnet for sv\u00e6rt kraftige servoer, som for eksempel KST BLS 359 WP eller KST CM3510MG V6.0. Disse to servoene fra KST er vanntette og har en ytelse p\u00e5 henholdsvis 28 kgf.cm og 35 kgf.cm. Av den grunn bestemte vi oss for \u00e5 forsterke det originale servobrettet fra aero-naut, slik at det ikke vrir seg. Til dette ble det frest en karbonplate som limes sammen med originalbrettet. Dette Servoboard<\/a> kan dere, i likhet med roranlegget, kj\u00f8pe i v\u00e5r butikk<\/a><\/span>. <\/p>

Montering av Servoboard b\u00f8r om mulig gj\u00f8res f\u00f8r dekkplankingen, slik at det er nok plass til \u00e5 bore hullene for de nye rorhylsene. Det er ogs\u00e5 mulig i etterkant, men med litt mer arbeid. I limingen av rorhylsene i skroget har vi samtidig st\u00f8pt inn kj\u00f8levannsinntakene for fartregulatorene med harpiks. <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\tv\u00e5rt Servoboard med limte rorhylser i rustfritt st\u00e5l<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\tenn\u00e5 tillater b\u00e5ten et blikk ovenfra ...<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Etter at alle arbeider p\u00e5 skroget i det store og hele er ferdige, kan vi endelig g\u00e5 l\u00f8s p\u00e5 dekket. F\u00f8rste og andre lag mahognifin\u00e9r limte vi, slik aero-naut beskriver, med hvitt trelim p\u00e5 spantkonstruksjonen. Eneste avvik: vi str\u00f8k ikke med porefyller. Siden hele b\u00e5ten etterp\u00e5 skal strykes med Miposeal, er det ikke n\u00f8dvendig, og limingen holder bedre. Det andre laget ble etter herding av trelimet allerede forseglet med Miposeal, siden vi vil lime det tredje mahognilaget med harpiks. Etter min mening er dette n\u00f8dvendig, fordi intarsiaene skal limes inn med 2-komponentlim, og man i tillegg f\u00e5r et slags utjevningslag. <\/p>

Som beskrevet av aero-naut la vi intarsiaene inn i det \u00f8verste laget og limte dem p\u00e5 undersiden med 2-komponentlim (harpiksen v\u00e5r). Siden alt til slutt skal bli pent og plant, la vi plastfolie over og tynget det hele godt ned med vekter for herding. Slik lot vi det t\u00f8rke i en god dag, og deretter \u2013 som nevnt \u2013 limte vi det med harpiks p\u00e5 det andre laget. Med et flott resultat, synes vi. <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\tf\u00f8rste lag er limt p\u00e5 ...<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"\"\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\tandre lag legges p\u00e5 med hvitt trelim<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"\"\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\tog fikseres for herding<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"\"\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\tliming av intarsiaene<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"\"\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\tfin\u00e9rene m\u00e5 presses godt<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"\"\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t... dekket ser bra ut<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Akterspeilet \u00f8nsker vi ogs\u00e5 \u00e5 plankekle i tre lag, det er jo nok materiale igjen av mahognien. Derfor ble spantkonstruksjonen n\u00e5 bygget opp med et ekstra lag, og deretter ble resten av delen i hekken lukket p\u00e5 samme m\u00e5te som dekket.N\u00e5 gjenst\u00e5r bare \u00e5 lime p\u00e5 st\u00f8tlistene p\u00e5 baugomr\u00e5det samt sidelistene, s\u00e5 kan vi pusse hele b\u00e5ten og allerede forsegle den med v\u00e5r epoksyharpiks HT 2. <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"\"\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\tbeskyttelseslisten er limt p\u00e5 baugen<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"\"\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\toppbygging av spantene<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\tf\u00f8rste lag i hekken er limt<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"\"\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\ttredje lag presses igjen<\/span>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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Er interessen din vekket? Da g\u00e5r du hit: Del 2<\/a> <\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

I lang tid har vi g\u00e5tt med ideen om \u00e5 bygge en edeltreb\u00e5t. N\u00e5 ble min kone begeistret for en italiensk sportsb\u00e5t i ferien. Siden Pedrazzini Vivale Veloce i originalversjon […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":44363,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_glsr_average":0,"_glsr_ranking":0,"_glsr_reviews":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1163],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-44926","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-general-insights"],"yoast_head":"\nAero-Naut \u00abComtesse\u00bb \u2013 v\u00e5r byggereportasje | ScaleMonkey<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Opplev sammen med oss byggingen av mahognib\u00e5ten \u00abComtesse\u00bb fra aero-naut. Et f\u00f8rsteklasses byggesett bygget av ScaleMonkey. 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